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The Stories about My Natural Dye Experiments and Adventures
Showing posts with label Paper. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paper. Show all posts
Tuesday, June 28, 2016
Tuesday, May 20, 2014
Deconstructed Screen Printing with Natural Dyes and Stencils!
Materials List:
Silk Screens
Squeegee for Silk Screen
Stencils
Natural Dye Extracts
Gum Tragacanth Binder
Containers to hold natural dye extracts/binder I used paper cups.
Plastic Spoons
Newspaper
Masking Tape
Fabric or Watercolor Papers
Products
Used:
Links:
How-to make the Gum
Tragacanth Binder Video
I am here today to show you how
to use stencils with a silk screen and natural dyes for screen printing.
Instructions:
Mix up Gum Tragacanth with Natural Dye Extracts; see video for specific
amounts and mixing instructions. I made
a little card with the names of the extracts I was working with and daubed a
bit of the color next to each name, for future projects.
Most silk screens won’t be the same size as your stencil, however,
I have an easy fix for this problem.
Measure your screen and your stencil and then block off the required
space for your stencil by taping news print to the FRONT of your silk
screen. Then tape your stencil to the
front of the screen making sure to overlap the stencil onto the newsprint.
Blocked off silk screen, as seen from the front.
Blocked off silk screen as seen from the back.
Black Birds in Tree Inverse taped to the FRONT of the silk screen.
Place your natural dye binder medium onto the screen,
towards the edge, this is known as “the well”.
Using your squeegee pull the medium in a firm manner across the screen,
once you have reached the other side, pull the medium back towards yourself, do
this several times adding more of the natural dye binder medium if needed until
the color on the screen looks even.
Gently lift up the silk screen from your substrate, I
used 300# cold press watercolor paper for this sample.
Printing onto cochineal dyed cotton fabric.
Thursday, November 28, 2013
Black Friday Sale!!! eBooks, DVD's, Academy, and More!
Black Friday Sale 2013!!!
DVD Set $69.95
Digital Download $39.95
eBook Combo $19.95
Black Friday Membership Sale!!!
$299.00 (non-refundable)
Join me and other artists in 2014!
We will be taking fabric from ordinary to extraordinary!!!
Stitched Stories, Mix Media Prints,
Fabric Bundles and More!!!
Monday, April 15, 2013
Rust Dyeing eClass
Growth.
Rust Dyed Cotton Fabric
Machine Stitched.
I'm working on the content for the Rust Dyeing eClass!!! Learn how to rust dye fabric, paper, and how to overdye with tannins, etc., for a gorgeous one of a kind surface!
Bjorkboda detail.
Rust, tannin, and indigo dyed cotton fabric.
Machine and Hand stitched.
Thursday, June 14, 2012
My Creative Process Part 2 of 4
Stage 2 of my creative process is to take notes, if I
haven’t been doing so already, and to start auditioning my materials for the
new work/series.
My drawing desk on which I keep a piece of white butcher paper. I like the white paper as it allows me to draw on it, take notes, and audition darkers objects such as these letter press blocks.
For those of you following my blogs you know that I have a large inventory of supplies to work with: these supplies range from naturally dyed fabrics, to handmade papers (many I made myself), inks, paint, threads, beads, shells, rocks, etc. Actually, what I have are collections. Collections that I have been creating and adding too since I was about nine years of age.
Some natural dye materials for dyeing fabric and fibers.
Rusty objects for dyeing fabrics and papers as well as for inspiration.
For those of you following my blogs you know that I have a large inventory of supplies to work with: these supplies range from naturally dyed fabrics, to handmade papers (many I made myself), inks, paint, threads, beads, shells, rocks, etc. Actually, what I have are collections. Collections that I have been creating and adding too since I was about nine years of age.
Some natural dye materials for dyeing fabric and fibers.
Rusty objects for dyeing fabrics and papers as well as for inspiration.
Shell bits and rocks from one of my collections, these live on my desk.
As part of the creative process I audition many of the objects in my collections, and image library, sometimes it's a series of phrases I've read in a book that inspire a piece.
Monday, November 22, 2010
Encaustic - Playing with Wax
I will be live streaming from my studio this coming Wednesday 3-5pm. Will be working on some encaustic collage pieces and maybe some other stuff as well. Check it out!
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Dyeing Paper - One Approach
Size your paper with soy milk, let it dry/cure 12-24hours. Then apply some pomegranate extract, or any natural dye extract, natural earth pigment, etc., to the surface of your paper. Allow to dry. Btw you CAN do this for paper pulp as well but this becomes a little trickier and is a bit on the advanced papermaking side of the spectrum.
You need to allow your paper to cure for 3-6 months, depending on the heat and humidity levels of your locale, BEFORE you rinse the excess dye off the surface of the paper. Not exactly a quick project I know BUT the colors can be quite stunning. I highly suggest working with papers of mixed fiber content, not just cotton rag. Experiment with flax, hemp, silk, recycled sari, papers for your natural dye projects.
You need to allow your paper to cure for 3-6 months, depending on the heat and humidity levels of your locale, BEFORE you rinse the excess dye off the surface of the paper. Not exactly a quick project I know BUT the colors can be quite stunning. I highly suggest working with papers of mixed fiber content, not just cotton rag. Experiment with flax, hemp, silk, recycled sari, papers for your natural dye projects.
Tuesday, July 08, 2008
Rust Dyeing an Introduction
Rust Dyeing by Kimberly Baxter Packwood © 2001
`````*````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*
AUTHORS NOTE: I wrote this awhile back, it was published in Turkey Red Journal - a well respected professional juried by your peers type journal (sometime around 2002). NOTE that these instructions from my self published book and this previously published article, and my artwork, were then published in Cloth Paper Scissors in 2007, I was NOT given credit for my work or my words. - Kimberly
`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*
Rust dyeing is a surface design method that adds dimension to your fabrics and fibers. I use the technique predominately on cotton or silk fabrics. Natural fibers take the rust colors better than synthetic fibers.
You can rust dye onto commercially dyed and/or printed fabrics. However, fabrics dyed using synthetic dyes, or those dyed with natural dyes take rust dyeing best as they usually do not have anti-stain coatings on them.
When applying rusty objects to naturally dyed fabrics the colors will change. Iron, i.e. rust, is a modifier and is used as a mordant with natural dyes. Modifiers change the existing color via shifts in the pH levels. An example would be hibiscus or cochineal, each yield a red color, when you add iron they shift from red to purple. A minute amount causes this color change.
You can place rusty objects next to wet fabric and acquire rust patterning over time. However, vinegar will speed up the rusting process, it aids in breaking the rust particles free from the object that is rusting. Rusting occurs normally due to oxidation, i.e. contact with the air. Be patient. Rust dyeing with water takes about a week. Using vinegar produces color in less time usually twenty-four hours.
I use straight vinegar and all sorts of rusty objects to acquire my rust dyed patterns. Old nails and wire work well for this technique. Wire can be used for bound resist techniques, especially when wrapping the fabric around a rusty pipe. Or you can simply lay the wire in a loose pattern on the fabric and rust it in that manner.
Pole wrapping and bound resist techniques work well with rust dyeing. Simply wrap your vinegar-saturated fabric around a rusty pole, being careful not to tear the fabric, scrunch and otherwise manipulate the fabric to created patterning.
You can sprinkle iron mordant or iron shavings onto your fabric for other patterning. Iron mordant is preferable to shavings. Shavings are often sharp things that can cut you or the fabric. Metal shavings may be coated in machinery oil which would put unwanted stains onto the fabric.
If you like your rusty pieces and want to push the rust dyeing technique further, rinse the fabric and neutralize it in salt water (correction 2008 use baking soda water instead of salt water), rinse it again and then rust the fabric once more. This will help prevent the fabric from rotting through.
Natural rust is an iron oxide. It comes in about ten or more natural colors depending on what it is in the neighboring the iron ore. Wear gloves and a mask when working with it. Iron in this form wants to bind with your hemoglobin blocking all available sites for oxygen, ask me how I know. You can become gravely ill from too much contact with raw iron products. In addition, tolerance to raw iron varies with each person.
You can mix a small amount natural rust with water, I generally use one teaspoon rust to one cup liquid, or with soy milk to paint fabric. Stir well. Let it sit for 24 hours to ensure that all of the color will dissolve. Then apply the rust solution to the fabric. Use a old brush you can dedicate to this kind of project. Natural bristle brushes work best with this technique allowing the liquid to wick up the bristles and not leave a mess on your fabric. Cure the fabric dry for 24 hours. Rinse and neutralize your fabric in a saltwater solution.
When using the rust technique if you want the process to stop you need to neutralize it with a salt-water solution. Dissolve about 1/4 cup salt into four gallons of hot water. I do this in a five-gallon bucket. Soak your fabric in the salt water about fifteen minutes. Wash the fabric using a non-phosphorous soap or a mild color free shampoo.
I teach workshops on rust dyeing, several workshops on natural dyeing and several for clay/pigment dyeing
- Kimberly
`````*````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*
AUTHORS NOTE: I wrote this awhile back, it was published in Turkey Red Journal - a well respected professional juried by your peers type journal (sometime around 2002). NOTE that these instructions from my self published book and this previously published article, and my artwork, were then published in Cloth Paper Scissors in 2007, I was NOT given credit for my work or my words. - Kimberly
`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*
Rust dyeing is a surface design method that adds dimension to your fabrics and fibers. I use the technique predominately on cotton or silk fabrics. Natural fibers take the rust colors better than synthetic fibers.
You can rust dye onto commercially dyed and/or printed fabrics. However, fabrics dyed using synthetic dyes, or those dyed with natural dyes take rust dyeing best as they usually do not have anti-stain coatings on them.
When applying rusty objects to naturally dyed fabrics the colors will change. Iron, i.e. rust, is a modifier and is used as a mordant with natural dyes. Modifiers change the existing color via shifts in the pH levels. An example would be hibiscus or cochineal, each yield a red color, when you add iron they shift from red to purple. A minute amount causes this color change.
You can place rusty objects next to wet fabric and acquire rust patterning over time. However, vinegar will speed up the rusting process, it aids in breaking the rust particles free from the object that is rusting. Rusting occurs normally due to oxidation, i.e. contact with the air. Be patient. Rust dyeing with water takes about a week. Using vinegar produces color in less time usually twenty-four hours.
I use straight vinegar and all sorts of rusty objects to acquire my rust dyed patterns. Old nails and wire work well for this technique. Wire can be used for bound resist techniques, especially when wrapping the fabric around a rusty pipe. Or you can simply lay the wire in a loose pattern on the fabric and rust it in that manner.
Pole wrapping and bound resist techniques work well with rust dyeing. Simply wrap your vinegar-saturated fabric around a rusty pole, being careful not to tear the fabric, scrunch and otherwise manipulate the fabric to created patterning.
You can sprinkle iron mordant or iron shavings onto your fabric for other patterning. Iron mordant is preferable to shavings. Shavings are often sharp things that can cut you or the fabric. Metal shavings may be coated in machinery oil which would put unwanted stains onto the fabric.
If you like your rusty pieces and want to push the rust dyeing technique further, rinse the fabric and neutralize it in salt water (correction 2008 use baking soda water instead of salt water), rinse it again and then rust the fabric once more. This will help prevent the fabric from rotting through.
Natural rust is an iron oxide. It comes in about ten or more natural colors depending on what it is in the neighboring the iron ore. Wear gloves and a mask when working with it. Iron in this form wants to bind with your hemoglobin blocking all available sites for oxygen, ask me how I know. You can become gravely ill from too much contact with raw iron products. In addition, tolerance to raw iron varies with each person.
You can mix a small amount natural rust with water, I generally use one teaspoon rust to one cup liquid, or with soy milk to paint fabric. Stir well. Let it sit for 24 hours to ensure that all of the color will dissolve. Then apply the rust solution to the fabric. Use a old brush you can dedicate to this kind of project. Natural bristle brushes work best with this technique allowing the liquid to wick up the bristles and not leave a mess on your fabric. Cure the fabric dry for 24 hours. Rinse and neutralize your fabric in a saltwater solution.
When using the rust technique if you want the process to stop you need to neutralize it with a salt-water solution. Dissolve about 1/4 cup salt into four gallons of hot water. I do this in a five-gallon bucket. Soak your fabric in the salt water about fifteen minutes. Wash the fabric using a non-phosphorous soap or a mild color free shampoo.
I teach workshops on rust dyeing, several workshops on natural dyeing and several for clay/pigment dyeing
- Kimberly
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