The Stories about My Natural Dye Experiments and Adventures
Wednesday, September 09, 2009
Cochineal Vat
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Blouse
Rust dyed cotton blouse over dyed with logwood purple yeilded this lovely charocoal with deep purple tones.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Madder Root on Cotton and Monitor Colors
In case your monitor is reading tans and beige be rest assured that the colors in my Madder Root on Vintage Trims post are in fact peach, coral, and orange! AND there's even a bright neon yellowish to orangish on the nylon cotton blend. NOTE that colors DO vary from monitor to monitor, and my monitor is set to CMYK mode.
While dyeing cotton fabrics does involve a certain amount of work bright colors CAN be obtained on cotton and linen fabrics! Don't be discouraged by what other's say bright colors ARE obtainable on cotton and linen. I've been dyeing cotton for over 15 years now and I'm living proof that it is indeed possible.
While dyeing cotton fabrics does involve a certain amount of work bright colors CAN be obtained on cotton and linen fabrics! Don't be discouraged by what other's say bright colors ARE obtainable on cotton and linen. I've been dyeing cotton for over 15 years now and I'm living proof that it is indeed possible.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Madder Root Dyed Vintage Lace and Trims
Vintage lace and trims I picked up at a yard sale this summer, some are antiques. Everything has been scoured by washing twice in hot water - to get rid of the smell, then boiled with soda ash for two hours. The items were then mordanted with alum and soaked for two days in the alum vat, I then dyed everything with Madder Root Extract I left them to soak in the madder root vat for two days. The brighter yellow items are made of nylon hence the color.Sunday, August 09, 2009
Today's Dye Session
Today's dye session consisted of a madder root extract vat and a logwood purple extract vat. The madder root vat contains a combination of cotton and linen vintage trims. The logwood vat contains vintage damask napkins and linen napkins.Friday, July 31, 2009
Basic Natural Dyeing Safety
Dye Safety
Copyright 2003
Kimberly Baxter Packwood
Never assume that because it’s a natural dye that it’s safe!
Many people have allergies to grasses, weeds, flowers and trees.
IF you are a highly sensitive/allergic person then be sure of what you are dyeing WITH before dyeing.
IF you have severe allergies consult with your doctor prior to dyeing with grasses, flowers, tree parts, or any unknown or known weed.
Always work in an area that is designated for studio/dye work.
Never use dye materials, mordants or other dyestuffs in your designated cooking areas!
Use only dedicated dye equipment that is used for dyeing/surface design only. Never use this equipment for cooking food for human consumption.
Use a high quality respirator when handling dye extracts and mordants.
Work in an adequately ventilated area.
Copyright 2003
Kimberly Baxter Packwood
Never assume that because it’s a natural dye that it’s safe!
Many people have allergies to grasses, weeds, flowers and trees.
IF you are a highly sensitive/allergic person then be sure of what you are dyeing WITH before dyeing.
IF you have severe allergies consult with your doctor prior to dyeing with grasses, flowers, tree parts, or any unknown or known weed.
Always work in an area that is designated for studio/dye work.
Never use dye materials, mordants or other dyestuffs in your designated cooking areas!
Use only dedicated dye equipment that is used for dyeing/surface design only. Never use this equipment for cooking food for human consumption.
Use a high quality respirator when handling dye extracts and mordants.
Work in an adequately ventilated area.
Stirring the Indigo Fermentation Vat
Here you can see the madder root, which has yet to break down, under the indigo water's surface the water has a blue foam on the top but has not turned a dark blue yet. This vat requires more fermentation time before it will become usable.
The vat will start out dark blue color you will need to beat air into the vat to get it to reduce at this time. Beating the indigo fermentation vat seems to defy all logic when it comes to indigo dyeing - where you are constantly being told to NOT introduce Oxygen into the vat, this is the one time you get to stir the dickens out of your indigo vat and it results in great colors!
Here the color is beginning to turn a dark pea green color, it needs further reduction so keep stirring until it turns yellow.Indigo Fermentation Vat
Natural Indigo Fermentation Vat
Copyright 2006
Kimberly Baxter Packwood
Natural Indigo Fermentation Vat Mini-Vat Instructions
1.0 ounce Natural Indigo Ground
0.5 ounce Madder Root cut into fine pieces
0.5 ounce Bran (Wheat works best, Oat will also work)
3.0 ounce Soda Ash
Stainless Steel, or Enamel, Pot. A plastic bucket may be substituted for the pot, be sure that has a tight fitting lid.
Place warm water, not boiling, into pot, preferably one that holds more than 2 gallons of water.
WARNING: Wear respirator when working with ground indigo, anything in powdered form will float easily in the air making it easily inhaled. This is not good for your lungs!
WARINGING: Soda Ash is highly caustic, wear gloves and dust mask when handling soda ash. Avoid contact with skin.
Dissolve ground indigo in warm tap water, enough to cover and make a rough paste.
Note: The ground Indigo will float at the top of the vat if just thrown into the water make your paste first. The indigo at this point is not completely dissolved, once introduced to the vat; it will dissolve after a few days in the vat.
Add madder root, bran, and soda ash to the warm water stir well then add indigo paste to the vat. Cover, but not tightly, and apply heat source.
Stir the pot once, or twice, a day during the reduction period with one gentle stir. If you stir the vat too often this will introduce Oxygen into the vat.
Depending on where you live, i.e., temperature and humidity levels, the vat can take anywhere from 5 – 10 days to become viable. By viable I mean ready to dye fibers.
Fermentation vats need to be kept warm while reducing. I keep my vat, a stainless steel pot that is covered with a lid, in my studio oven (gas) where the pilot light is continuously on, about 98 degrees F.
The vat needs to be kept at body temperature during the reduction phase.
If you do not have a dedicated oven, I recommend using either a heating pad, with a temperature control knob, or a high quality fish tank heater with digital temperature controls.
Chopped Madder Root
Wheat Bran
Madder Root added to warm water in bucket. Initially it floats at the top of the water’s surface.
The Bran now added to the vat. The bran floats on top of the madder root until they have been sufficiently stirred together, eventually sinking to the bottom of the vat.
Soda Ash has now been added to the vat. The vat has a foamy look from the bubbling action of the soda ash. The mixture has been blended, to ensure that the soda ash does not solidify on the bottom of the bucket. 
Natural Indigo added to the vat. The Madder and Bran are still floating at or near the waters surface. The indigo while made into a paste, does not want to dissolve in the water as you can see from the globs hanging on the sides of the bucket.
Copyright 2006
Kimberly Baxter Packwood
Natural Indigo Fermentation Vat Mini-Vat Instructions
1.0 ounce Natural Indigo Ground
0.5 ounce Madder Root cut into fine pieces
0.5 ounce Bran (Wheat works best, Oat will also work)
3.0 ounce Soda Ash
Stainless Steel, or Enamel, Pot. A plastic bucket may be substituted for the pot, be sure that has a tight fitting lid.
Place warm water, not boiling, into pot, preferably one that holds more than 2 gallons of water.
WARNING: Wear respirator when working with ground indigo, anything in powdered form will float easily in the air making it easily inhaled. This is not good for your lungs!
WARINGING: Soda Ash is highly caustic, wear gloves and dust mask when handling soda ash. Avoid contact with skin.
Dissolve ground indigo in warm tap water, enough to cover and make a rough paste.
Note: The ground Indigo will float at the top of the vat if just thrown into the water make your paste first. The indigo at this point is not completely dissolved, once introduced to the vat; it will dissolve after a few days in the vat.
Add madder root, bran, and soda ash to the warm water stir well then add indigo paste to the vat. Cover, but not tightly, and apply heat source.
Stir the pot once, or twice, a day during the reduction period with one gentle stir. If you stir the vat too often this will introduce Oxygen into the vat.
Depending on where you live, i.e., temperature and humidity levels, the vat can take anywhere from 5 – 10 days to become viable. By viable I mean ready to dye fibers.
Fermentation vats need to be kept warm while reducing. I keep my vat, a stainless steel pot that is covered with a lid, in my studio oven (gas) where the pilot light is continuously on, about 98 degrees F.
The vat needs to be kept at body temperature during the reduction phase.
If you do not have a dedicated oven, I recommend using either a heating pad, with a temperature control knob, or a high quality fish tank heater with digital temperature controls.
Chopped Madder Root
Wheat Bran
Madder Root added to warm water in bucket. Initially it floats at the top of the water’s surface.
The Bran now added to the vat. The bran floats on top of the madder root until they have been sufficiently stirred together, eventually sinking to the bottom of the vat.
Soda Ash has now been added to the vat. The vat has a foamy look from the bubbling action of the soda ash. The mixture has been blended, to ensure that the soda ash does not solidify on the bottom of the bucket.WARNING: Always add your acids and bases to water, never the other way around! Doing so can result in harmful reactions that can cause injury.
Natural Indigo added to the vat. The Madder and Bran are still floating at or near the waters surface. The indigo while made into a paste, does not want to dissolve in the water as you can see from the globs hanging on the sides of the bucket. Indigo Dyeing Safety Instructions
Indigo Vat Safety Instructions
DO NOT TOUCH YOUR FACE OR EYES WHEN HANDLING LYE, SODA ASH, THIOX, OR ANY CHEMICAL!!!
Lye Handling Instructions
NEVER add water to Lye (Sodium hydroxide). You will create a dangerous reaction doing so. ALWAYS add your Lye (Sodium hydroxide) to “cold” water.
Once the Lye is added to the “cold” water the water will become very hot from the chemical reaction! This reaction will cause your utensils and vat container to become hot. Have hot pads or insulated gloves for handling hot equipment.
Make sure that your container can withstand high temperatures.
Read safety instructions that came with your Lye (Sodium hydroxide).
Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) is dangerous! Extreme caution must be used when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide). Lye (Sodium hydroxide) will cause serious burns to the skin, eyes and mucous membranes.
A respirator is required when handling lye(Sodium hydroxide) products as inhalation of the fumes can cause serious burns to the nose and mouth (mucous membranes)
Wear protective gloves, such as latex or nitrile gloves, when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide). Lye (Sodium hydroxide) can cause serious burns to the skin, especially if your skin is moist! The lye (Sodium hydroxide) will start reacting with the moisture on your skin immediately, causing serious burns.
NOTE: Make sure that your gloves are proper fitting, and not too lose, as an ill fitted glove can lead to accidents.
Wear safety goggles/glasses when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide)! This is to prevent any of the lye liquid/fumes from entering the eyes.
NOTE: Do not touch your face, eyes, or ears when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide) products!
Wash your hands thoroughly for five minutes, and upper arms, after working with lye (Sodium hydroxide). You want to make sure that your hands are completely free of chemical before touching any other parts of your body to prevent burns.
Do NOT use with aluminum or cheap stainless steel containers or utensils. Do NOT put lye into an a cast iron pot!
FIRST AID: wash burned area with cool water for 15-20 minutes. Call or seek emergency help for burns. Seek medical attention immediately.
If swallowed seek medical attention immediately. Do NOT induce vomiting!!!
Keep Lye (Sodium hydroxide) away from children and small pets.
IF a spill should occur sweep of lye and dispose of down the sink drain with copious amounts of cold water.
This ALSO applies to Thiox, Indigo extract, Soda Ash or any mordant, assist, or chemical when you are working in the studio.
Thiox will burn your skin wash immediately with water.
Work in a well ventilated area, I prefer to work out of doors with the wind blowing away from me.
Wear a respirator when working with Natural Dye Extracts, Mordants, and Dye Assists
DO NOT PUT WATER INTO YOUR THIOX POWDER AS THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS CREATING A TOXIC CLOUD OF GAS!!!
Rather using a studio dedicated teaspoon place your thiox into the indigo vat.
DO NOT TOUCH YOUR FACE OR EYES WHEN HANDLING LYE, SODA ASH, THIOX, OR ANY CHEMICAL!!!
Lye Handling Instructions
NEVER add water to Lye (Sodium hydroxide). You will create a dangerous reaction doing so. ALWAYS add your Lye (Sodium hydroxide) to “cold” water.
Once the Lye is added to the “cold” water the water will become very hot from the chemical reaction! This reaction will cause your utensils and vat container to become hot. Have hot pads or insulated gloves for handling hot equipment.
Make sure that your container can withstand high temperatures.
Read safety instructions that came with your Lye (Sodium hydroxide).
Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) is dangerous! Extreme caution must be used when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide). Lye (Sodium hydroxide) will cause serious burns to the skin, eyes and mucous membranes.
A respirator is required when handling lye(Sodium hydroxide) products as inhalation of the fumes can cause serious burns to the nose and mouth (mucous membranes)
Wear protective gloves, such as latex or nitrile gloves, when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide). Lye (Sodium hydroxide) can cause serious burns to the skin, especially if your skin is moist! The lye (Sodium hydroxide) will start reacting with the moisture on your skin immediately, causing serious burns.
NOTE: Make sure that your gloves are proper fitting, and not too lose, as an ill fitted glove can lead to accidents.
Wear safety goggles/glasses when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide)! This is to prevent any of the lye liquid/fumes from entering the eyes.
NOTE: Do not touch your face, eyes, or ears when handling lye (Sodium hydroxide) products!
Wash your hands thoroughly for five minutes, and upper arms, after working with lye (Sodium hydroxide). You want to make sure that your hands are completely free of chemical before touching any other parts of your body to prevent burns.
Do NOT use with aluminum or cheap stainless steel containers or utensils. Do NOT put lye into an a cast iron pot!
FIRST AID: wash burned area with cool water for 15-20 minutes. Call or seek emergency help for burns. Seek medical attention immediately.
If swallowed seek medical attention immediately. Do NOT induce vomiting!!!
Keep Lye (Sodium hydroxide) away from children and small pets.
IF a spill should occur sweep of lye and dispose of down the sink drain with copious amounts of cold water.
This ALSO applies to Thiox, Indigo extract, Soda Ash or any mordant, assist, or chemical when you are working in the studio.
Thiox will burn your skin wash immediately with water.
Work in a well ventilated area, I prefer to work out of doors with the wind blowing away from me.
Wear a respirator when working with Natural Dye Extracts, Mordants, and Dye Assists
DO NOT PUT WATER INTO YOUR THIOX POWDER AS THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS CREATING A TOXIC CLOUD OF GAS!!!
Rather using a studio dedicated teaspoon place your thiox into the indigo vat.
Indigo Dyeing using a Lye or Soda Ash vat
Dye Materials Needed
1 ounce Indigo extract or Indigo chunks
1 cup Soda Ash or Lye (I HIGLY recommend using Soda Ash NOT Lye~!)
2 Tablespoons Thiourea dioxide or Thiox
Water
Equipment needed:
Respirator – you only get one set of lungs! Wear a respirator when handling dye powders, mordants, and dye assists~!
Gloves – wear heavy duty kitchen or dyeing gloves when handling the indigo ingredients (See safety Instructions Below)
Stock Pot 18 quarts or bigger, can be Stainless Steel or Enamel the indigo vat will react with aluminum so I don’t recommend using aluminum pots for creating the vat.
Scale for weighing dyes and chemicals – again studio dedicated!
Measuring spoons, measuring cups, wisk for stirring
Jar – wide mouth pint jar for making indigo paste
Spoon, studio dedicated, for stirring the vat
Tongs for retrieving your fabrics, fibers, etc.
Lingerie bag for small items you wish to find in the vat again the bag makes them easier to retrieve
Water for your vat, rinsing, and for oxidizing
Vinegar – helps to restore the pH balance of wool and silk fibers/fabrics
pH papers/strips for testing the pH of your vat.
Heat source
Clothesline for hanging fabrics onto to help fabric oxidize faster.
Natural Indigo Chemical Reduction Mini-Vat Instructions:
1. READ Safety Instructions before Beginning the Indigo Vat!
2. Fill your vat container with water you don’t need to heat the vat at this point. ALLOW TO SIT OVERNIGHT, doing this allows the oxygen to dissipate from the vat.
3. Place 1 ounce Natural Indigo powder (if you are working with hard chunk indigo it will have to be ground down first) into a suitable container.
4. Add just enough hot water until you get a paste – preferably lump free (I use a dedicated wide mouth pint jar for this solution.
5. Add soda ash or lye to the vat water - NEVER add water to your soda ash or lye ALWAYS add the soda ash or lye to the water!!!
6. Slowly add the indigo paste to the vat solution
7. Stir to dissolve NOTE this may take quite a bit of stirring, heating the vat at this point also helps with dissolving the paste faster.
8. Next add thiox to the vat solution stir very little so as to avoid adding Oxygen to the vat.
9. DO NOT BOIL YOUR VAT as this will cause bubble formation and will introduce Oxygen into the vat.
10. REMOVE HEAT after 30 minutes
11. Cover vat and allow to sit until reduction is complete.
12. Reduction is complete when your vat turns a yellow to yellowish pea green color.
13. If your vat is still blue after 24 hours then you have too much Oxygen in your vat add thiox to the vat in small increments, a few grains of thiox at a time, to further reduce the vat.
14. If you reduce the vat too far then gently stir the vat with one or two swirls of the spoon and allow to sit for 30 minutes.
15. You will need to test the pH of the vat to see if the pH is correct
16. pH should be 10.0 – 11.5
· cottons 11.0-11.5
· wool and silk 10.5-11.0 preferably closer to 10.5
17. Adjust pH by adding small amounts, half teaspoon at a time, of soda ash to your vat, even is you created a lye vat do NOT add more lye to the vat at this point.
1 ounce Indigo extract or Indigo chunks
1 cup Soda Ash or Lye (I HIGLY recommend using Soda Ash NOT Lye~!)
2 Tablespoons Thiourea dioxide or Thiox
Water
Equipment needed:
Respirator – you only get one set of lungs! Wear a respirator when handling dye powders, mordants, and dye assists~!
Gloves – wear heavy duty kitchen or dyeing gloves when handling the indigo ingredients (See safety Instructions Below)
Stock Pot 18 quarts or bigger, can be Stainless Steel or Enamel the indigo vat will react with aluminum so I don’t recommend using aluminum pots for creating the vat.
Scale for weighing dyes and chemicals – again studio dedicated!
Measuring spoons, measuring cups, wisk for stirring
Jar – wide mouth pint jar for making indigo paste
Spoon, studio dedicated, for stirring the vat
Tongs for retrieving your fabrics, fibers, etc.
Lingerie bag for small items you wish to find in the vat again the bag makes them easier to retrieve
Water for your vat, rinsing, and for oxidizing
Vinegar – helps to restore the pH balance of wool and silk fibers/fabrics
pH papers/strips for testing the pH of your vat.
Heat source
Clothesline for hanging fabrics onto to help fabric oxidize faster.
Natural Indigo Chemical Reduction Mini-Vat Instructions:
1. READ Safety Instructions before Beginning the Indigo Vat!
2. Fill your vat container with water you don’t need to heat the vat at this point. ALLOW TO SIT OVERNIGHT, doing this allows the oxygen to dissipate from the vat.
3. Place 1 ounce Natural Indigo powder (if you are working with hard chunk indigo it will have to be ground down first) into a suitable container.
4. Add just enough hot water until you get a paste – preferably lump free (I use a dedicated wide mouth pint jar for this solution.
5. Add soda ash or lye to the vat water - NEVER add water to your soda ash or lye ALWAYS add the soda ash or lye to the water!!!
6. Slowly add the indigo paste to the vat solution
7. Stir to dissolve NOTE this may take quite a bit of stirring, heating the vat at this point also helps with dissolving the paste faster.
8. Next add thiox to the vat solution stir very little so as to avoid adding Oxygen to the vat.
9. DO NOT BOIL YOUR VAT as this will cause bubble formation and will introduce Oxygen into the vat.
10. REMOVE HEAT after 30 minutes
11. Cover vat and allow to sit until reduction is complete.
12. Reduction is complete when your vat turns a yellow to yellowish pea green color.
13. If your vat is still blue after 24 hours then you have too much Oxygen in your vat add thiox to the vat in small increments, a few grains of thiox at a time, to further reduce the vat.
14. If you reduce the vat too far then gently stir the vat with one or two swirls of the spoon and allow to sit for 30 minutes.
15. You will need to test the pH of the vat to see if the pH is correct
16. pH should be 10.0 – 11.5
· cottons 11.0-11.5
· wool and silk 10.5-11.0 preferably closer to 10.5
17. Adjust pH by adding small amounts, half teaspoon at a time, of soda ash to your vat, even is you created a lye vat do NOT add more lye to the vat at this point.
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Solar Dyeing
I started by placing an ounce of dye materials into a clean quart jar (old spagetti sauce jars)
Filled the jars with vodka or everclear until the dye materials are covered, placed lid on jar and allowed to sit overnight.
Placed alum mordanted silk fat quarters into each jar, filled with distilled water, placed lid back onto jar and placed the jars in a sunny location. Here you can see the dye liquid wick up the fabric.
Leave in sun for up to three weeks, check to make sure that mold isn't growing on your fabrics. 2004
Tuesday, July 07, 2009
How to Scour Cotton Cloth
Scouring Fabric
Kimberly Baxter Packwood © 2001
When working with any mordant or dye powder always wear a respirator with fresh filters.
NOTE: Any dyeing equipment used in natural dyeing, should never ever be used or reused for the preparation, storage or cooking of food or beverages.
What Scouring Does:
Scouring fabric is easy and will ensure excellent dye uptake every time.
Scouring is a two step process, both steps must be followed if you wish to acquire the greatest depth of color.
Scouring fabric removes the grease, dust, dirt and grime that fabrics encountered during the manufacturing process and transit.
How to Scour Your Fabric:
Simply wash your fabric, this includes PFD fabric, in the washing machine in hot water with Soda Ash. Do not add any fabric softeners to the wash. If you must dry your fabric do so without any fabric softener sheets
NOTE: Fabric softeners interfere with both natural and synthetic dye uptake.
Using an large enamel or stainless steel pot, fill the pot at least half full and place one ounce of soda ash into the pot per pound of cotton or linen fabric/fiber.
Place fabric into water, swish it around using a stainless steel spoon.
Bring water to a boil!!!
Adjust heat to a low boil/hard simmer and allow to boil for two hours. stir the fabric every 15 minutes or so t make sure that the fabric is being adequately scoured
After two hours remove from heat source, allow fabric to cool down until the fabric is at room temperature.
Remove the fabric from the water and rinse.
NOTE: If the water is brown or grey replace the water & soda ash mixture with fresh water and soda ash and re-scour the fabric, it is not clean yet. repeat this process until the fabric rinses clean and the scour water is only mildly dirty.
Your fabric is now ready to be Mordanted & Dyed!
Kimberly Baxter Packwood © 2001
When working with any mordant or dye powder always wear a respirator with fresh filters.
NOTE: Any dyeing equipment used in natural dyeing, should never ever be used or reused for the preparation, storage or cooking of food or beverages.
What Scouring Does:
Scouring fabric is easy and will ensure excellent dye uptake every time.
Scouring is a two step process, both steps must be followed if you wish to acquire the greatest depth of color.
Scouring fabric removes the grease, dust, dirt and grime that fabrics encountered during the manufacturing process and transit.
How to Scour Your Fabric:
Simply wash your fabric, this includes PFD fabric, in the washing machine in hot water with Soda Ash. Do not add any fabric softeners to the wash. If you must dry your fabric do so without any fabric softener sheets
NOTE: Fabric softeners interfere with both natural and synthetic dye uptake.
Using an large enamel or stainless steel pot, fill the pot at least half full and place one ounce of soda ash into the pot per pound of cotton or linen fabric/fiber.
Place fabric into water, swish it around using a stainless steel spoon.
Bring water to a boil!!!
Adjust heat to a low boil/hard simmer and allow to boil for two hours. stir the fabric every 15 minutes or so t make sure that the fabric is being adequately scoured
After two hours remove from heat source, allow fabric to cool down until the fabric is at room temperature.
Remove the fabric from the water and rinse.
NOTE: If the water is brown or grey replace the water & soda ash mixture with fresh water and soda ash and re-scour the fabric, it is not clean yet. repeat this process until the fabric rinses clean and the scour water is only mildly dirty.
Your fabric is now ready to be Mordanted & Dyed!
Why Should I Scour PFD Cotton Fabric
Once again it is time to point out the importance of proper fabric preparation when dyeing with natural dyes. I don't say this to be rude but rather to save you much time, effort, and disappointment when dyeing cotton with natural dyes.
Q. Do I have to scour my PFD, Prepared for Dyeing, Fabrics?
A. YES you must scour PFD fabric before mordnating and dyeing with natural dyes, I go as far as even washing BEFORE I scour my fabric to ensure that the dressing oils, all fabrics receive these it's to keep the dust down when the fabric is rolled onto bolts, tubes, etc.. I have scouring instructions on my website and video on youtube. The scouring process is so very important with cellulosic fibers as it helps to force the fibers open before the mordanting and dyeing steps. Scouring ensures that your fabric will hold maximum natural dye molecules and helps to achieve truer colors.
Q. is your water hard or treated? Water quality is very important regarding the final dye color out come. Hard water tends to supress most dye molecules (exception is weld it becomes more intense).
Q. Which plants do you plan to dye with? Some plants do not yield permanent color so it is important to know this before you start a project, as depending on your plans for the fabric you may not be able to over dye at a later date if your colors fade.
NOTE: Also cotton fabrics don't take certain natural dye colors no matter what you do to the fabric but silk and wool fabrics will suck the color up like no tomorrow.
Q. Do I have to scour my PFD, Prepared for Dyeing, Fabrics?
A. YES you must scour PFD fabric before mordnating and dyeing with natural dyes, I go as far as even washing BEFORE I scour my fabric to ensure that the dressing oils, all fabrics receive these it's to keep the dust down when the fabric is rolled onto bolts, tubes, etc.. I have scouring instructions on my website and video on youtube. The scouring process is so very important with cellulosic fibers as it helps to force the fibers open before the mordanting and dyeing steps. Scouring ensures that your fabric will hold maximum natural dye molecules and helps to achieve truer colors.
Q. is your water hard or treated? Water quality is very important regarding the final dye color out come. Hard water tends to supress most dye molecules (exception is weld it becomes more intense).
Q. Which plants do you plan to dye with? Some plants do not yield permanent color so it is important to know this before you start a project, as depending on your plans for the fabric you may not be able to over dye at a later date if your colors fade.
NOTE: Also cotton fabrics don't take certain natural dye colors no matter what you do to the fabric but silk and wool fabrics will suck the color up like no tomorrow.
Scouring PFD Cotton Fabric
Once again it is time to point out the importance of proper fabric preparation when dyeing with natural dyes. I don't say this to be rude but rather to save you much time and effort when dyeing cotton with natural dyes.
Q. Do I have to scour my PFD, Prepared for Dyeing, Fabrics?
A. YES you must scour PFD fabric before mordnating and dyeing with natural dyes, I go as far as even washing BEFORE I scour my fabric to ensure that the dressing oils, all fabrics receive these it's to keep the dust down when the fabric is rolled onto bolts, tubes, etc.. I have scouring instructions on my website and video on youtube. The scouring process is so very important with cellulosic fibers as it helps to force the fibers open before the mordanting and dyeing steps. Scouring ensures that your fabric will hold maximum natural dye molecules and helps to achieve truer colors.
Q. is your water hard or treated? Water quality is very important regarding the final dye color out come. Hard water tends to supress most dye molecules (exception is weld it becomes more intense).
Q. Which plants do you plan to dye with? Some plants do not yield permanent color so it is important to know this before you start a project, as depending on your plans for the fabric you may not be able to over dye at a later date if your colors fade.
NOTE: Also cotton fabrics don't take certain natural dye colors no matter what you do to the fabric but silk and wool fabrics will suck the color up like no tomorrow.
Q. Do I have to scour my PFD, Prepared for Dyeing, Fabrics?
A. YES you must scour PFD fabric before mordnating and dyeing with natural dyes, I go as far as even washing BEFORE I scour my fabric to ensure that the dressing oils, all fabrics receive these it's to keep the dust down when the fabric is rolled onto bolts, tubes, etc.. I have scouring instructions on my website and video on youtube. The scouring process is so very important with cellulosic fibers as it helps to force the fibers open before the mordanting and dyeing steps. Scouring ensures that your fabric will hold maximum natural dye molecules and helps to achieve truer colors.
Q. is your water hard or treated? Water quality is very important regarding the final dye color out come. Hard water tends to supress most dye molecules (exception is weld it becomes more intense).
Q. Which plants do you plan to dye with? Some plants do not yield permanent color so it is important to know this before you start a project, as depending on your plans for the fabric you may not be able to over dye at a later date if your colors fade.
NOTE: Also cotton fabrics don't take certain natural dye colors no matter what you do to the fabric but silk and wool fabrics will suck the color up like no tomorrow.
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Dyeing with Instant Indigo
There are a mutlitude of ways to set up an indigo vat, my personal preference is for instant indigo ;-) That being said...
CAUTION: Wear Gloves, Dust Mask and/or Respirator, and protective eye wear, when Handling Instant Indigo it is caustic.
To use Instant Indigo, a naturally reduced indigo vat that has been flash frozen, add 1 Tablespoon of Instant Indigo to 4 gallons very hot tap water.
Use a plastic bucket, or a non-food use studio dedicated stainless steel or enamel pot for dyeing.
After placing instant indigo into the hot water do NOT stir as this will introduce air into the vat. Allow to sit for 15 minutes, this allows the crystals enough time to dissolve.
Then add your fabric or fiber to the vat allow to sit 5-15 minutes.
Using tongs, remove your fabric or fiber from the vat very quickly.
Do NOT allow liquid from yarn or fabric to drip back into the vat as this will introduce air into the vat.
Allow fabric to oxidize by hanging it up flat so it will receive air on all sides., your fabric may be greenish when you remove it from the vat. I allow my fabric to hang for 15 minutes or so others state that the fabric must oxidize for 24 hours before going back into the vat!
Rinse fabric thoroughly.
Dip your fabric, into the Instant Indigo vat again, repeating process as above until you acquire the color depth desired.
Indigo yields it’s best colors through multiple dips and appropriate oxidation.
Neutralize your fabric or fibers using vinegar. 1 cup white vinegar to 1 gallon water is sufficient.
Wash fabrics and fibers with a mild soap in the usual manner.
CAUTION: Wear Gloves, Dust Mask and/or Respirator, and protective eye wear, when Handling Instant Indigo it is caustic.
To use Instant Indigo, a naturally reduced indigo vat that has been flash frozen, add 1 Tablespoon of Instant Indigo to 4 gallons very hot tap water.
Use a plastic bucket, or a non-food use studio dedicated stainless steel or enamel pot for dyeing.
After placing instant indigo into the hot water do NOT stir as this will introduce air into the vat. Allow to sit for 15 minutes, this allows the crystals enough time to dissolve.
Then add your fabric or fiber to the vat allow to sit 5-15 minutes.
Using tongs, remove your fabric or fiber from the vat very quickly.
Do NOT allow liquid from yarn or fabric to drip back into the vat as this will introduce air into the vat.
Allow fabric to oxidize by hanging it up flat so it will receive air on all sides., your fabric may be greenish when you remove it from the vat. I allow my fabric to hang for 15 minutes or so others state that the fabric must oxidize for 24 hours before going back into the vat!
Rinse fabric thoroughly.
Dip your fabric, into the Instant Indigo vat again, repeating process as above until you acquire the color depth desired.
Indigo yields it’s best colors through multiple dips and appropriate oxidation.
Neutralize your fabric or fibers using vinegar. 1 cup white vinegar to 1 gallon water is sufficient.
Wash fabrics and fibers with a mild soap in the usual manner.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Madder Root
Fresh Madder Root from my best friends green house - picture and roots courtsey of Karen Hartshorn!
Dried Madder Root - picture and roots courtsey of me!YES there is a discernable difference in the color and the intensity of the colors you get when using fresh or dried madder root! If you can get fresh roots that is the best way to go, much better reds. The lightfastness and washfastness will be the same but the overall intensities will be different.
Dye Instructions
I think it should go without saying that the instructions on this blog are mine, I wrote them so if you use them please ask for permission first so I know who is using them. Thank you!!! - Kimberly
Madder Root - Cold Water Soak
Materials List:
8 oz to 1 # of whole Madder Root
4-5 Gallon Bucket
Fish Tank Heater
Water
½ pound of fibers of your choice (If using fabrics cut the fabric up into 3 inch or less sized squares so you will have samples for every day)
NOTE: If your dyeing both silk and cotton samples the silk will hoard most of the color from the cotton fabrics. For the first time using this method I recommend sticking to one type of fiber only – silk and wool fabrics are great candidates for the first dye trial.
This method is a variation of the method that Nest Rubio wrote about in Spin-Off Magazine (Spring 1993). When done properly you will get a nice range of values with this method.
Break your madder root into smallish pieces ¼” to ½” inch in length.
Cover in water and soak overnight.
Rinse Madder Root the next day.
You can save the rinse water and use it with other yellowish yielding dyes if desired.
The reason for rinsing the madder root, if it is dried madder root not fresh, is to remove any of the yellow dye that is present in the root. Leaving the yellow rinse water will give you dyes more towards the orange/yellow end of the spectrum. Rinsing the madder root after the initial soak will give you deeper truer reds.
NOTE: In this method you do not grind the roots. Grinding the roots releases all of their color immediately, and for this fermentation method you want a slow release of color so in order to have color gradations over a period of days, rather than using all of the color at once.
NOTE: Pre-mordant you fibers before inserting them into the dye vat, this is one time where an all-in-one vat does NOT work well.
NOTE: if you are dyeing cotton or other cellulosic fibers you will want to use the triple mordant method on those fibers. That method being the Alum – Tannin – Alum method.
MOLD: Preventing mold from forming on the vat surface is crucial, mold, its spores and mycelium will turn the red color brown and very quickly. I have found that by simply keeping a fish tank heater in the vat prevents the mold from forming in the first place.
Temperature: It is critical that the vat does NOT come to a boil, EVER! Boiling madder root will cause the browns to be released from the root, ruining the vat. (Yes you can use this brown to dye with, but it will not yield reds).
Keeping careful notes on the date and time you entered the fiber into the dye vat and the date and time you removed the fibers from the dye vat, will allow you to repeat the process.
Now this is what I DO:
Place your rinsed madder root into the bucket, and cover with very hot water, but not boiling. I use my hottest tap water for this procedure.
Place the fish tank heater into the bucket, and leave it set on a medium heat setting. You are shooting for around 85-90 degrees fareinheight.
Place your pre-mordant fibers into the vat with the madder root.
NOTE: That the madder root has been left in the vat with the fibers, I typically work with cotton fabrics, and any mottling and patterning that ends up on the fabric is highly desired.
If you are wanting more solid fibers/fabrics then you will need to stir the vat each day to ensure even color. Make sure that all of the fiber remains below the waters surface, for even color.
Also having a divider between the madder root and the fiber, such as a glass dinner plate, is critical. This prevents the fibers from touching the roots, thus preventing dark spots from occurring on the roots.
After I have entered my fiber into my dye vat I typically leave it for 24 to 48 hours, depending on what the dye vat looked like before I put the fibers in it.
Usually around day two or three, about 48-72 hours, and I try to remove my fibers around the same hour of the day that I placed them into the vat, I will remove one or two samples from the vat. DO NOT RINSE the fibers.
Place these samples in a bowl or other vessel where they can sit overnight, unrinsed. This is part of the batching process.
The next day I rinse those fibers and hang them up to dry somewhere, out of the sunlight.
I then check the fibers in my vat to see if the remaining fibers are any darker than the previous days. If not I may check on them again in 12 hours and again at 24 hours.
I remove the samples as they become progressively darker, creating a value scale. The value you range you achieve depends on the fibers you chose, the amount of fibers you use, and the amount of madder root to fiber you have used.
You will have a larger value range with silk or wool versus cotton fabrics, and other limiting factors such as water quality and the age/freshness of the madder root.
I typically exhaust the vat after two weeks, using cotton fabrics/fibers.
Using Nest Rubio’s method with wool, and very small wool samples as she suggests, you should exhaust the vat in 30 days. http://www.rugreview.com/13-3nest.htm
NOTE: I did not add any chalk or cream of tartar to the vat, they are not required in the fermentation process, unless your water dictates such additions to correct the pH of the vat.
You can however, do comparison vats one without any modifiers (this is any agent that shifts the pH of the vat), to one vat with just madder root and chalk, and another vat with madder root and cream of tartar, and compare this to the vat samples with no modifier.
8 oz to 1 # of whole Madder Root
4-5 Gallon Bucket
Fish Tank Heater
Water
½ pound of fibers of your choice (If using fabrics cut the fabric up into 3 inch or less sized squares so you will have samples for every day)
NOTE: If your dyeing both silk and cotton samples the silk will hoard most of the color from the cotton fabrics. For the first time using this method I recommend sticking to one type of fiber only – silk and wool fabrics are great candidates for the first dye trial.
This method is a variation of the method that Nest Rubio wrote about in Spin-Off Magazine (Spring 1993). When done properly you will get a nice range of values with this method.
Break your madder root into smallish pieces ¼” to ½” inch in length.
Cover in water and soak overnight.
Rinse Madder Root the next day.
You can save the rinse water and use it with other yellowish yielding dyes if desired.
The reason for rinsing the madder root, if it is dried madder root not fresh, is to remove any of the yellow dye that is present in the root. Leaving the yellow rinse water will give you dyes more towards the orange/yellow end of the spectrum. Rinsing the madder root after the initial soak will give you deeper truer reds.
NOTE: In this method you do not grind the roots. Grinding the roots releases all of their color immediately, and for this fermentation method you want a slow release of color so in order to have color gradations over a period of days, rather than using all of the color at once.
NOTE: Pre-mordant you fibers before inserting them into the dye vat, this is one time where an all-in-one vat does NOT work well.
NOTE: if you are dyeing cotton or other cellulosic fibers you will want to use the triple mordant method on those fibers. That method being the Alum – Tannin – Alum method.
MOLD: Preventing mold from forming on the vat surface is crucial, mold, its spores and mycelium will turn the red color brown and very quickly. I have found that by simply keeping a fish tank heater in the vat prevents the mold from forming in the first place.
Temperature: It is critical that the vat does NOT come to a boil, EVER! Boiling madder root will cause the browns to be released from the root, ruining the vat. (Yes you can use this brown to dye with, but it will not yield reds).
Keeping careful notes on the date and time you entered the fiber into the dye vat and the date and time you removed the fibers from the dye vat, will allow you to repeat the process.
Now this is what I DO:
Place your rinsed madder root into the bucket, and cover with very hot water, but not boiling. I use my hottest tap water for this procedure.
Place the fish tank heater into the bucket, and leave it set on a medium heat setting. You are shooting for around 85-90 degrees fareinheight.
Place your pre-mordant fibers into the vat with the madder root.
NOTE: That the madder root has been left in the vat with the fibers, I typically work with cotton fabrics, and any mottling and patterning that ends up on the fabric is highly desired.
If you are wanting more solid fibers/fabrics then you will need to stir the vat each day to ensure even color. Make sure that all of the fiber remains below the waters surface, for even color.
Also having a divider between the madder root and the fiber, such as a glass dinner plate, is critical. This prevents the fibers from touching the roots, thus preventing dark spots from occurring on the roots.
After I have entered my fiber into my dye vat I typically leave it for 24 to 48 hours, depending on what the dye vat looked like before I put the fibers in it.
Usually around day two or three, about 48-72 hours, and I try to remove my fibers around the same hour of the day that I placed them into the vat, I will remove one or two samples from the vat. DO NOT RINSE the fibers.
Place these samples in a bowl or other vessel where they can sit overnight, unrinsed. This is part of the batching process.
The next day I rinse those fibers and hang them up to dry somewhere, out of the sunlight.
I then check the fibers in my vat to see if the remaining fibers are any darker than the previous days. If not I may check on them again in 12 hours and again at 24 hours.
I remove the samples as they become progressively darker, creating a value scale. The value you range you achieve depends on the fibers you chose, the amount of fibers you use, and the amount of madder root to fiber you have used.
You will have a larger value range with silk or wool versus cotton fabrics, and other limiting factors such as water quality and the age/freshness of the madder root.
I typically exhaust the vat after two weeks, using cotton fabrics/fibers.
Using Nest Rubio’s method with wool, and very small wool samples as she suggests, you should exhaust the vat in 30 days. http://www.rugreview.com/13-3nest.htm
NOTE: I did not add any chalk or cream of tartar to the vat, they are not required in the fermentation process, unless your water dictates such additions to correct the pH of the vat.
You can however, do comparison vats one without any modifiers (this is any agent that shifts the pH of the vat), to one vat with just madder root and chalk, and another vat with madder root and cream of tartar, and compare this to the vat samples with no modifier.
Madd About Madder Root
Photo of Madder Root Courtesy of Karen Hartshorn8 oz to 1 # of whole Madder Root
4-5 Gallon Bucket
Water
Break your madder root into smallish pieces ¼” to ½” inch in length.
Cover in water and soak overnight.
Rinse Madder Root the next day.
You can save the rinse water and use it with other yellowish yielding dyes if desired.
The reason you rinse the madder root, if it is dried madder root not fresh, is to remove any of the yellow dye that is present in the root. Leaving the yellow rinse water will give you dyes more towards the orange/yellow end of the spectrum. Rinsing the madder root after the initial soak will give you deeper truer reds.
4-5 Gallon Bucket
Water
Break your madder root into smallish pieces ¼” to ½” inch in length.
Cover in water and soak overnight.
Rinse Madder Root the next day.
You can save the rinse water and use it with other yellowish yielding dyes if desired.
The reason you rinse the madder root, if it is dried madder root not fresh, is to remove any of the yellow dye that is present in the root. Leaving the yellow rinse water will give you dyes more towards the orange/yellow end of the spectrum. Rinsing the madder root after the initial soak will give you deeper truer reds.
Tuesday, June 02, 2009
Dyeing with Onion Skins
Cover Onion Skins, half pounds worth if you can get them, with water.
Bring to a simmer for about 15 minutes and then allow to sit overnight - doing this allows the dye molecules to leach from the onion skins.
Next day bring to a simmer and let simmer for about an hour before adding pre-mordant fabrics, fibers, etc.
Allow the fibers to simmer for an hour do NOT bring to a boil as this will bring out the browns in the dye molecules and you don't want that.
Shut off the heat leaving the fabircs in the dye bath.
Allow the dyebath and fabric to sit overnight.
This has yeilded the best color to date that has been quite lightfast.
Bring to a simmer for about 15 minutes and then allow to sit overnight - doing this allows the dye molecules to leach from the onion skins.
Next day bring to a simmer and let simmer for about an hour before adding pre-mordant fabrics, fibers, etc.
Allow the fibers to simmer for an hour do NOT bring to a boil as this will bring out the browns in the dye molecules and you don't want that.
Shut off the heat leaving the fabircs in the dye bath.
Allow the dyebath and fabric to sit overnight.
This has yeilded the best color to date that has been quite lightfast.
Monday, June 01, 2009
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Monday, May 18, 2009
To increase depth of color, texture, and over all interest apply tannic acid to your pieces while they are rusting. The simplist source for tannin is tea, however, tannic acids in the form of quebracho's give richer colors and depth. Immerse in a solution of soda ash and water for even deeper patterning.Note however that each step reduces the archivalness of your piece.
Happy Rusting
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Dyeing with Cochineal
Copyright Kimberly Baxter Packwood 2001
You can perform multiple dye extractions with cochineal bugs to obtain a concentrated dye bath.
Day One: I used two ounces of the bugs, cover them in water, then heat them to near boiling. I then turn off the heat and let them sit overnight, in the same pan. (one these days I need to buy another one of these pans as it is my favorite).
Day two I strain the bugs in a hand held sieve, into a much bigger stainless steel pan (about 8 quarts I guess).
I then place the bugs back into my smaller pan, cover with water and reheat them to near boiling. I then turn off the heat and let them sit overnight.
The next day I strain them again, placing the dye liquor into the previous days extraction. I repeat this process upwards of 20 times.
NOTE: You will need to heat the dye liquor every few days or so to prevent mold from forming on the dye extractant. When you are done it will be blackish in color.
This dye liquor is a super concentrated cochineal dye bath.When you are ready to dye just remove a smallish amount, about one quarters cup worth, from the dye liquor and place it into your dye bath water.
NOTE: If it's still blackish just add a smidge of Alum and it'll redden right up. I do this all of the time.
This is an excellent way to get the biggest bang for your dye resources. I do this all of the time with cochineal and other dye materials. Most dye materials lend themselves to only one or two extractions, beyond the original dye extraction.
Copyright Kimberly Baxter Packwood 2001
You can perform multiple dye extractions with cochineal bugs to obtain a concentrated dye bath.
Day One: I used two ounces of the bugs, cover them in water, then heat them to near boiling. I then turn off the heat and let them sit overnight, in the same pan. (one these days I need to buy another one of these pans as it is my favorite).
Day two I strain the bugs in a hand held sieve, into a much bigger stainless steel pan (about 8 quarts I guess).
I then place the bugs back into my smaller pan, cover with water and reheat them to near boiling. I then turn off the heat and let them sit overnight.
The next day I strain them again, placing the dye liquor into the previous days extraction. I repeat this process upwards of 20 times.
NOTE: You will need to heat the dye liquor every few days or so to prevent mold from forming on the dye extractant. When you are done it will be blackish in color.
This dye liquor is a super concentrated cochineal dye bath.When you are ready to dye just remove a smallish amount, about one quarters cup worth, from the dye liquor and place it into your dye bath water.
NOTE: If it's still blackish just add a smidge of Alum and it'll redden right up. I do this all of the time.
This is an excellent way to get the biggest bang for your dye resources. I do this all of the time with cochineal and other dye materials. Most dye materials lend themselves to only one or two extractions, beyond the original dye extraction.
Copyright Kimberly Baxter Packwood 2001
Monday, December 22, 2008
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Wednesday, October 01, 2008
Dyeing With Onion Skins
Fall is an excellent time to dye with onion skins as Onions are being harvested now!Materials List:
Wool
Onion Skins
Onion Skins
Alum
Stainless Steel Pot
Water
Heat Source
You will need to mordant your wool with Alum first to ensure that your color is permanent.
Onion Skin Dye Bath
- Take onion skins and place in stainless steel pot, make sure this is a studio dedicated pot, and cover with hot or boiling water.
- Allow to sit overnight.
- The next day bring dye pot to a simmer and leave for one hour.
- Remove onion skins if desired - leaving them will create a mottled yarn or fabric.
- Place wet rinsed mordanted wool into dye bath and simmer for two hours.
- If using the cold dyeing method leave wool overnight in the dye bath.
- Remove wool from dye bath, rinse snd dry
- NOTE: wool may have a slight onion smell this is normal with natural dyed goods.
Your wool is now ready to use!
Tuesday, July 08, 2008
A Rust Dyeing Visual
Lay out fabric to be rusted most any fabric and surface WILL rust so be sure to protect your work area with a plastic drop cloth!
Arrange rusty objects into a pleasing pattern.
Spritz with vinegar 
Cover with plastic 24 hours, the plastic keeps the fabric and rusty areas moist.
Remove plastic to check progress, if desired rewet and cover again for darker richer markings.
Rust Dyeing Q & A
Rust Dyeing Questions and Answers by Kimberly Baxter Packwood © 2001
Q. Can I use salt water instead of vinegar to oxidize the metal?
A. Yes. Vinegar causes metal to oxidize faster than salt water.
Q. What is the fastest way to rust fabric?
A. I place my vinegar wetted fabric into a plastic bag with rusty objects, I then place them in a sunny location that is warm. I will have adequate rust on my fabric in about 24 hours, depending on the level of rust I am seeking.
Q. Will the fabric rust through?
A. It depends on how far you allow the rusting process to proceed. You can rust the fabric to the point that the fabric will develop holes. If you do not want holes immediately then you need to stop the rusting process and neutralize the fabrics.
Q. I rusted my fabric, but I want more rust on the fabric, can I rust my fabric again?
A. Yes. I would neutralize and rinse the fabrics before proceeding with any further rusting applications.
Q. Can I over dye the rusted fabric?
A. Yes. If you are using natural dyes the iron from the rust can act as a mordant, saddening the natural dye colors. An example would be khaki from Osage Orange which gives golden to brassy yellows.
Q. How do I stop the rusting process?
A. You will need to neutralize your fabric with salt water or even soda ash to raise the pH of the fabric. Periodically, at least once a year, you will have to neutralize your fabrics as once the rust has bonded with the fibers it will continue to rust indefinitely.
Q. Is rusted fabric archival?
A. No! You can promote the longevity of your piece by periodically neutralizing the fabrics. However, neutralizing the fabric will not create an archival fabric.
Q. I Rusted my fabric for a quilting project but my needle will not go through the fabric, what am I doing wrong?
A. Try the rusting techniques on a loser weave fabric. The rust, when oxidizing, is to some extent, creating a layer of metal oxide onto the fabric. If your fabric has a tight dense weave this layer of metal oxide is denser as well, making it difficult to needle.
NOTE: If the metal oxide is thick, and chunky, on the fabrics surface I would not recommend using your sewing machine as the oxide particles can cause problems with your machine.
Q. Can I use salt water instead of vinegar to oxidize the metal?
A. Yes. Vinegar causes metal to oxidize faster than salt water.
Q. What is the fastest way to rust fabric?
A. I place my vinegar wetted fabric into a plastic bag with rusty objects, I then place them in a sunny location that is warm. I will have adequate rust on my fabric in about 24 hours, depending on the level of rust I am seeking.
Q. Will the fabric rust through?
A. It depends on how far you allow the rusting process to proceed. You can rust the fabric to the point that the fabric will develop holes. If you do not want holes immediately then you need to stop the rusting process and neutralize the fabrics.
Q. I rusted my fabric, but I want more rust on the fabric, can I rust my fabric again?
A. Yes. I would neutralize and rinse the fabrics before proceeding with any further rusting applications.
Q. Can I over dye the rusted fabric?
A. Yes. If you are using natural dyes the iron from the rust can act as a mordant, saddening the natural dye colors. An example would be khaki from Osage Orange which gives golden to brassy yellows.
Q. How do I stop the rusting process?
A. You will need to neutralize your fabric with salt water or even soda ash to raise the pH of the fabric. Periodically, at least once a year, you will have to neutralize your fabrics as once the rust has bonded with the fibers it will continue to rust indefinitely.
Q. Is rusted fabric archival?
A. No! You can promote the longevity of your piece by periodically neutralizing the fabrics. However, neutralizing the fabric will not create an archival fabric.
Q. I Rusted my fabric for a quilting project but my needle will not go through the fabric, what am I doing wrong?
A. Try the rusting techniques on a loser weave fabric. The rust, when oxidizing, is to some extent, creating a layer of metal oxide onto the fabric. If your fabric has a tight dense weave this layer of metal oxide is denser as well, making it difficult to needle.
NOTE: If the metal oxide is thick, and chunky, on the fabrics surface I would not recommend using your sewing machine as the oxide particles can cause problems with your machine.
Rust Dyeing an Introduction
Rust Dyeing by Kimberly Baxter Packwood © 2001
`````*````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*
AUTHORS NOTE: I wrote this awhile back, it was published in Turkey Red Journal - a well respected professional juried by your peers type journal (sometime around 2002). NOTE that these instructions from my self published book and this previously published article, and my artwork, were then published in Cloth Paper Scissors in 2007, I was NOT given credit for my work or my words. - Kimberly
`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*
Rust dyeing is a surface design method that adds dimension to your fabrics and fibers. I use the technique predominately on cotton or silk fabrics. Natural fibers take the rust colors better than synthetic fibers.
You can rust dye onto commercially dyed and/or printed fabrics. However, fabrics dyed using synthetic dyes, or those dyed with natural dyes take rust dyeing best as they usually do not have anti-stain coatings on them.
When applying rusty objects to naturally dyed fabrics the colors will change. Iron, i.e. rust, is a modifier and is used as a mordant with natural dyes. Modifiers change the existing color via shifts in the pH levels. An example would be hibiscus or cochineal, each yield a red color, when you add iron they shift from red to purple. A minute amount causes this color change.
You can place rusty objects next to wet fabric and acquire rust patterning over time. However, vinegar will speed up the rusting process, it aids in breaking the rust particles free from the object that is rusting. Rusting occurs normally due to oxidation, i.e. contact with the air. Be patient. Rust dyeing with water takes about a week. Using vinegar produces color in less time usually twenty-four hours.
I use straight vinegar and all sorts of rusty objects to acquire my rust dyed patterns. Old nails and wire work well for this technique. Wire can be used for bound resist techniques, especially when wrapping the fabric around a rusty pipe. Or you can simply lay the wire in a loose pattern on the fabric and rust it in that manner.
Pole wrapping and bound resist techniques work well with rust dyeing. Simply wrap your vinegar-saturated fabric around a rusty pole, being careful not to tear the fabric, scrunch and otherwise manipulate the fabric to created patterning.
You can sprinkle iron mordant or iron shavings onto your fabric for other patterning. Iron mordant is preferable to shavings. Shavings are often sharp things that can cut you or the fabric. Metal shavings may be coated in machinery oil which would put unwanted stains onto the fabric.
If you like your rusty pieces and want to push the rust dyeing technique further, rinse the fabric and neutralize it in salt water (correction 2008 use baking soda water instead of salt water), rinse it again and then rust the fabric once more. This will help prevent the fabric from rotting through.
Natural rust is an iron oxide. It comes in about ten or more natural colors depending on what it is in the neighboring the iron ore. Wear gloves and a mask when working with it. Iron in this form wants to bind with your hemoglobin blocking all available sites for oxygen, ask me how I know. You can become gravely ill from too much contact with raw iron products. In addition, tolerance to raw iron varies with each person.
You can mix a small amount natural rust with water, I generally use one teaspoon rust to one cup liquid, or with soy milk to paint fabric. Stir well. Let it sit for 24 hours to ensure that all of the color will dissolve. Then apply the rust solution to the fabric. Use a old brush you can dedicate to this kind of project. Natural bristle brushes work best with this technique allowing the liquid to wick up the bristles and not leave a mess on your fabric. Cure the fabric dry for 24 hours. Rinse and neutralize your fabric in a saltwater solution.
When using the rust technique if you want the process to stop you need to neutralize it with a salt-water solution. Dissolve about 1/4 cup salt into four gallons of hot water. I do this in a five-gallon bucket. Soak your fabric in the salt water about fifteen minutes. Wash the fabric using a non-phosphorous soap or a mild color free shampoo.
I teach workshops on rust dyeing, several workshops on natural dyeing and several for clay/pigment dyeing
- Kimberly
`````*````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*
AUTHORS NOTE: I wrote this awhile back, it was published in Turkey Red Journal - a well respected professional juried by your peers type journal (sometime around 2002). NOTE that these instructions from my self published book and this previously published article, and my artwork, were then published in Cloth Paper Scissors in 2007, I was NOT given credit for my work or my words. - Kimberly
`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*`````*
Rust dyeing is a surface design method that adds dimension to your fabrics and fibers. I use the technique predominately on cotton or silk fabrics. Natural fibers take the rust colors better than synthetic fibers.
You can rust dye onto commercially dyed and/or printed fabrics. However, fabrics dyed using synthetic dyes, or those dyed with natural dyes take rust dyeing best as they usually do not have anti-stain coatings on them.
When applying rusty objects to naturally dyed fabrics the colors will change. Iron, i.e. rust, is a modifier and is used as a mordant with natural dyes. Modifiers change the existing color via shifts in the pH levels. An example would be hibiscus or cochineal, each yield a red color, when you add iron they shift from red to purple. A minute amount causes this color change.
You can place rusty objects next to wet fabric and acquire rust patterning over time. However, vinegar will speed up the rusting process, it aids in breaking the rust particles free from the object that is rusting. Rusting occurs normally due to oxidation, i.e. contact with the air. Be patient. Rust dyeing with water takes about a week. Using vinegar produces color in less time usually twenty-four hours.
I use straight vinegar and all sorts of rusty objects to acquire my rust dyed patterns. Old nails and wire work well for this technique. Wire can be used for bound resist techniques, especially when wrapping the fabric around a rusty pipe. Or you can simply lay the wire in a loose pattern on the fabric and rust it in that manner.
Pole wrapping and bound resist techniques work well with rust dyeing. Simply wrap your vinegar-saturated fabric around a rusty pole, being careful not to tear the fabric, scrunch and otherwise manipulate the fabric to created patterning.
You can sprinkle iron mordant or iron shavings onto your fabric for other patterning. Iron mordant is preferable to shavings. Shavings are often sharp things that can cut you or the fabric. Metal shavings may be coated in machinery oil which would put unwanted stains onto the fabric.
If you like your rusty pieces and want to push the rust dyeing technique further, rinse the fabric and neutralize it in salt water (correction 2008 use baking soda water instead of salt water), rinse it again and then rust the fabric once more. This will help prevent the fabric from rotting through.
Natural rust is an iron oxide. It comes in about ten or more natural colors depending on what it is in the neighboring the iron ore. Wear gloves and a mask when working with it. Iron in this form wants to bind with your hemoglobin blocking all available sites for oxygen, ask me how I know. You can become gravely ill from too much contact with raw iron products. In addition, tolerance to raw iron varies with each person.
You can mix a small amount natural rust with water, I generally use one teaspoon rust to one cup liquid, or with soy milk to paint fabric. Stir well. Let it sit for 24 hours to ensure that all of the color will dissolve. Then apply the rust solution to the fabric. Use a old brush you can dedicate to this kind of project. Natural bristle brushes work best with this technique allowing the liquid to wick up the bristles and not leave a mess on your fabric. Cure the fabric dry for 24 hours. Rinse and neutralize your fabric in a saltwater solution.
When using the rust technique if you want the process to stop you need to neutralize it with a salt-water solution. Dissolve about 1/4 cup salt into four gallons of hot water. I do this in a five-gallon bucket. Soak your fabric in the salt water about fifteen minutes. Wash the fabric using a non-phosphorous soap or a mild color free shampoo.
I teach workshops on rust dyeing, several workshops on natural dyeing and several for clay/pigment dyeing
- Kimberly
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